Introduction
I have lived in Brazil for most of my formative life where inequalities were blatant and part of my quotidian. It is gripping growing up in a place where the huge gaps between groups of society are so common and yet unsettling for most people observing it. Hunger is perhaps one of the injustices that reflects the country’s social divide the most. I would like to rewrite this famous quote from Brazilian scholar Josué de Castro (1946) and perhaps add its message to the context of why I personally am concerned with this topic:
“Half of Brazil does not sleep because it is hungry, and the other sleeps worrying about those who are hungry”.
I come from a privileged background in Brazil. I lived in the centre of my city where issues of access were never a concern. Nevertheless, this is still something I am passionate about and feel connected to. Although I am aware that my investigation is purely theoretical, paling in comparison to the insights you’ve garnered through years of practical experience and daily confrontations with these matters. I have studied food insecurity in the Brazilian context in depth and this is my humble attempt to communicate what I have learnt.
This report is addressed to Brasilândia. A community in the northern region of São Paulo, Brazil’s largest city. I will contextualise the issue in the country’s economic and social settings and perhaps shine a light on the scale to which food insecurity is felt by the Brazilian population. Furthermore, I will talk about the urban geography of São Paulo’s periphery and link it to the problem of food deserts and swamps which represent a great difficulty of access and right to the city of its inhabitants. By framing Brasilândia within this context, I will be able to better address the issue of food insecurity and propose relevant answers to the unjust reality of the community.
Finally, I will offer potential solutions, drawing inspiration from the resilience shown by other communities. By focusing on the positive impact of local food production, restructuring supply chains, and addressing food habits and waste, I will show how the community can attain food sovereignty. My role as a bridge between Brasilândia and these communities is meant to encourage you to examine your own circumstances in a similar light.
The Context – Brazil, a country that claims to feed the world but can’t feed itself
Five years after proudly celebrating the achievement of being removed from the UN Hunger Map in 2014, Brazil, unfortunately saw itself back on it since 2019 (FAO, 2023). This is partly attributed to the change in the country’s export strategy and focus under a new government. Additionally, Brazil faced significant setbacks from the pandemic, which starkly underscored the deep-seated inequalities within the country, and highlighted troubles of food insecurity. Today, 30.7% of the Brazilian population lives in moderate or serious food insecurity (PESSAN 2022, p.36). This is equivalent to approximately 60 million people.
According to the Brazilian Food Insecurity Scale (Ministério do Desenvolvimento Social e Combate à Fome, 2014), moderate food insecurity consists of changes in adults’ eating patterns where there is restriction in quantity. Moreover, severe food insecurity is characterized by a break in the usual eating patterns which restrict the quality and quantity of food of the whole family – this may also encompass experiences of hunger.
Hunger is a merciless injustice in Brazil. It prompts us to think of the self-reinforcing cycle that traps marginalized communities into such vulnerable places. Enforcing principles of citizenship, accessibility, and solidarity is key for disrupting this pattern which seems to be cemented into the Brazilian order (PESSAN, 2022, p.9).
Brazil takes pride in being a major global exporter of vital agricultural commodities such as soy and corn (Delgado N. and Zimmerman S., 2022). However, the regrettable truth is that a substantial portion of their agricultural efforts is directed towards export rather than domestic consumption. This has led Brazilians to rely significantly on imported food items for their sustenance. To ensure the competitiveness of these exports, the Brazilian Real remains consistently devalued (Costa M. 2022; Peres J., 2022).
Additionally, Brazil’s current frame results in small-scale producers to be discouraged to continue because of the high barriers to the market. Their reliance on longer supply chains and the lack of support from the government makes it difficult for such produce to be a reliable option for small farmers who usually end up turning to soy (Duarte A. et al., 2020). Consequently, staple elements of the Brazilian diet, including rice, beans, manioc, coffee, and vegetables, continue to experience significant levels of inflation.
How can a country which prides itself on feeding the world justify such high levels of food insecurity?
When urban geography becomes an obstacle for a healthy diet
The lack of access to in natura (minimally processed) food by peripheral neighbourhoods is one of the components constructing the rigid wall isolating the outskirts from its city. Looking into this, Duran (2013) and Borges C. (2018) observed that areas scoring badly in social indicators such as education and wellbeing have limited access to good quality food. Showing that it is not only a question of food; it’s a broader struggle for a good quality of life.
The PESSAN 2022 report states that 15% of the urban population in Brazil experiences severe food insecurity (p.37). It is safe to infer that most of the difficulty is felt by the marginalized populations and that the cityscape only emphasises this barrier. The issue of insecurity has become pressing, Guilherme Simões from the National Secretariat of Peripheries reports that there have been more than 2000 new initiatives to fight against hunger since the pandemic (IBGE, 2023). I argue that there is an important link to be made between Brazil’s urban expansion and the reinforcement of inequalities by the geography of cities.
Latin America’s informal and social production of urban spaces is a distinctive characteristic (Fernandes, 2007, p.203). The informal has had the connotation of disorganized or inferior, but in this context, it is perhaps more subtle than this. Pongeluppe (2022, p.2780) describes “the favela effect” as a phenomenon through which spatial inequalities reinforce and perpetuate socioeconomic disparities by separating what is formal and what is informal – what a city is or is not, who is hungry and who is not.
Henri Lefebvre’s (1968) concept of the right to the city together with Via Campesina’s (1996) understanding of food sovereignty are good lenses through which we can examine this phenomenon. Understanding that the issues of access are fundamentally connected to social justice and the design of food systems is essential. Having the city as a right also means being autonomous and able to sustain yourself independently of your location within the urban area. Food deserts are places where access to in natura foods is scarce or impossible. Similarly, food swamps are areas where the sale low-nutrient products predominate (Alimentando Políticas, 2018, p.1). In both scenarios, people are forced to travel long distances to secure healthy food. This is the unfortunate reality of many people living it São Paulo’s peripheries. Its urban sprawl to peripheral areas started in the 1970s (Alves H. and Ojima R., 2013, p.119). The growth of peripheries also meant the consolidation of its limited access to essential infrastructure such as food systems. Considering this background, food deserts, represent a violation of Brazilian’s right to the city and sovereignty, as they disproportionately affect marginalized communities, perpetuating social injustices. It is therefore clear that the unequal geography of urban spaces in Brazil exacerbates social inequalities, particularly in the context of food access. The concept of “food deserts” and the struggle for the right to the city underscore the pressing need to confront these disparities in pursuit of social justice and the establishment of healthier and more inclusive urban environments.
Brasilândia, North of São Paulo
Vila Brasilândia is in the northern zone of São Paulo and falls under the jurisdiction of the Subprefecture of ‘Freguesia do Ó’. This neighbourhood is among the 1,747 favelas in the city of São Paulo (SP2, 2023). It’s estimated area is covers 21,0 km², with a population of approximately 264 thousand residents (Prefeitura de São Paulo, 2023).
Like many other peripheric communities in Brazil, the forming of these neighbourhoods is a fusion of individuals from diverse backgrounds, all drawn together by the allure of the city’s opportunities. Based on a documentary featuring community members (Brasilândia, 2013) the origins of Brasilândia are traced back from the conversion of cane sugar farms into informal residential centres the 1930s. Brasilândia is named after Basílio Simões who, at the time, led the community to build the Church of Santo Antonio.
Brasilândia experienced sizeable changes after the 1940s when the neighbourhood witnessed a significant influx of migrants. These migrants included individuals from the northeast of the country who were escaping drought in their home states, families from the interior of the state seeking opportunities in the capital, and a significant number of Europeans and Japanese seeking refuge from the war and a fresh start in the Americas.
Since then, Brasilândia expanded in a predominantly hasty manner. Consequently, obstacles to accessing city services such as electricity, healthcare, transport, and food suppliers. The community’s right to the city turned frail as inequalities and vulnerability became increasingly evident. The lack of recognition by the inner city became more patent when the Covid-19 affected peripheral communities disproportionately. People in the densely populated favelas did not have the “privilege” of self-isolation, most had to continue working, living from one paycheck to the next. This necessity, coupled with the additional burden of long commutes to access food, work, and health centres rendered their circumstances nearly intolerable. The Brasilândia district reported the biggest number of covid-related deaths in the city of São Paulo (Nicolav S., 2020). Severe food insecurity increased drastically which led the Brasilândia to join fifteen other communities from the periphery in a march against hunger in 2021 (Folha Noroeste, 2021).
Residents of the neighbourhood have created supportive initiatives to help one another in these difficult times. ‘Vó Tutu’s’ (Grandma Tutu) institute (Instituto Ações Sociais da vó Tutu, 2023) is an organization that exemplifies resilience and solidarity. She distributes approximately two thousand breads daily to residents who wait in line to be served by volunteers. Most of these people lost their jobs recently and have struggled greatly to feed themselves and their families. These breads are made by Grandma Tutu, her family and other community members every day of the week. She became viral on social media during the pandemic and was able to turn her proactiveness into the far-reaching institute she has today. Other groups or organizations in Brasilândia such as “Coletivo Mulheres da Noroeste” who usually do not focus on food insecurity have turned their attention to this pressing issue and engaged in collections of basic baskets of goods and supporting mothers in the community (Gatti T., 2022).
These efforts are mainly led by women, who have proven to be key players in the fight for sovereignty. We must keep in mind that they are the most compromised by food insecurity in the country (PESSAN, 2023, p.45). Vivas (2012) argues that in order to challenge the prevailing agro-industrial model, a feminist stance must be incorporated to disrupt the current trapping framework. Although the solutions in the next section do not address gender disparities directly, I believe they could all benefit from a feminist attitude, because of the profound impact such approach could have on food security and the inequalities intertwined with this problem. This is not only important for Brasilândia as a community but could serve as an example for the whole country.
Solutions
1. Produce your own food locally
My initial suggestion for Brasilândia is for the community to unite and participate in efforts that promote local food production within the periphery. Given the unfair persistence of food deserts and swamps in the area (CAISAN, 2018), the community can take the reins in matters like community gardens and centres to attain food justice and sovereignty on their own terms. Gottlieb & Joshi (2010) define food justice as a way to disrupt the status quo reigning over food systems by engaging in social activism. In our context, this advocacy from community-led projects is a way for Brasilândia to achieve food sovereignty and regain its right to the city (Datta R., 2021) by challenging the city geography. I will use examples from the “Morro das Pedras” community in Belo Horizonte, and the Paraisópolis favela in the south of São Paulo to illustrate the benefits of urban farming for peripheral communities.
Residents of Morro das Pedras agglomerate in western Belo Horizonte introduced a community garden project called “Morro Verde” to make use of its unused spaces in 2017 (Mendonça R. et al., 2020, p.225). The community garden not only thrived as a symbol of resilience but also created a positive atmosphere in the community which started to engage in new projects such as a yoga centre. Bringing production and consumption closer together, stimulates exchange and criticizes the city’s traditional production format, resuming the possibility of collective spatial production (Passos, 2023, p.135). Such initiatives can show communities how to cope with the multifaceted challenges posed by poverty and limited access by enforcing principles of citizenship. Not only does it serve to address pressing economic and resource constraints, but it also creates a platform for residents to harness their inherent strengths and unite in common purpose as proposed by the food justice theory. This could give Brasilândia a sense of freedom and independence which is not given by the traditional system.
Similarly, Paraisópolis a favela situated next to one of the richest neighborhoods in São Paulo has always struggled with inequalities of access (Paraisópolis 100 Anos, 2021). In 2020, in response to the challenges presented by the pandemic, the community built a 900m² concrete building for its first urban farm growing organic food called “Agro Favela” (Brissac C., 2022). The garden has a special focus on women from Paraisópolis who are victims of domestic violence, where it also serves as welcoming and formative space. They can participate in workshops or the project itself and where they learn how to grow food on the local “lajes” (flat roofs). Paraisópolis’s agro favela has produced 2.6 tons of vegetables since its creation (Causin J., 2023). This is a great example of how urban farming can successfully give a community its own healthy food supply and can lead it to the path towards food sovereignty, because it empowers the community to sustain itself without relying on external systems which unfortunately do not serve the periphery’s needs.
2. Reduce the distance food has to travel
While my next suggestion might seem similar to the previous one at first glance, I will focus on constructing more inclusive food supply chains in order to reduce the price residents of Brasilândia have to pay for food due to transport costs. The Brazilian food system is heavily reliant on road transportation, as do most industries in the country (Araújo M., Campos V., Bandeira R., 2013, p.152). Before getting to stores and supermarkets around the city, the produce goes through CEASA (the centre for the supply of fruit and vegetables of the city) where it is later on redistributed. The problem with this system is that it first impedes the consumer to from knowing where the produce is coming from (Vradis A. and Bartholl T., 2019, p.255) and increases the inbuilt cost of food because of the detour it has to take. Using examples from Campo Limpo and Manawatū, I will defend that reducing this distance by connecting Brasilândia to small producers close to the city would result in lower prices and more choice for the community. Claro R. and Monteiro C. (2010) argue that in food deserts, this could be a good way of increasing supply without relying on policy, which means it can also have quite a strong impact on the community’s food sovereignty.
Manawatū, a region in New Zealand’s North Island started community led food action network aimed at creating tighter connections between food suppliers and food banks to alleviate hunger and facilitate redistribution (Manawatū Food Action Network, 2023, p.3). With this approach, families receive the essential aid they need while also fostering stronger, more interconnected communities. In a similar vein, Campo Limpo in southeast São Paulo opened its first organic sales point in the city’s peripheries. “Armazém Organicamente” was opened by Thiago Vinicius in 2019 and aims to challenge the neighbourhood’s lack of supply by bringing in food that is produced directly to the shop, making good quality food accessible to Campo Limpo (Gould L., 2019).
Both examples show how inclusive food systems could be a good way of achieving resilience in a two-way relationship between small producers and the population of Brasilândia. The resulting collaborative effort can help them navigate Brazil’s export promoting system which has been detrimental to both parties (Amaral A., Jones G., Nogueira M., 2020). If instead of going through CEASA, fruits and vegetables could come straight from the producers, the price of these goods would be fairer, Brasilândia could choose where its food is coming from, and it would create ties with producers which could be key actors in achieving food security (Béné C., 2020). Therefore, a simpler route carved between the community and local farms can fight against the strengthening of food deserts caused by the intricate journey food follows. In this case, food security could be achieved without any external intervention – making Brasilândia once again the main player in its fight for food sovereignty and security.
3. Food habits
Finally, my last suggestion addresses food and waste habits of the Brazilian population in general, which if revised by Brasilândia, could equip the community with informed choices regarding food and managing local produce. The typical Brazilian diet is not very balanced. According to the Brazilian Ministry of Health (2014), there is an excessive consumption of red meat in the population, often reaching up to two times a day, although this can vary based on income, lower-income households would prioritize red meat over other foods. The recommended amount is no more than three portions per week (World Cancer Research Fund, 2018). Additionally, Souza A. et al. (2013) reveal a decline in the consumption of fruits and vegetables in Brazil, contrasting with the climbing intake of ultra-processed foods, attributed to lifestyle changes as described by Walter (2020). Similarly, Brazilian households produce considerable amounts of waste compared to other countries (United Nations Environment Programme, 2021, p.62). Encouraging communities to learn about healthy eating and resourceful ingredient use is vital for food security, especially when budget constraints limit the inclusion of diverse food groups. Implementing these strategies could alleviate the financial burden often associated with grocery expenses. I will use examples from Mossoró, Paraisópolis and communities in Free State and Northern Cape where projects helped educate the area on diverse diets and how to use food waste.
“Mãos de Maria” is a community kitchen in Paraisópolis which employs and offers cooking classes to peripheral women in order to strengthen women in the community and support the favela. The kitchen distributes ten thousand packed lunches every day since the pandemic (Mãos de Maria, 2023). This initiative helps women achieve food justice for their community and supports local food systems, which in the long run could create sovereignty. Looking at a more educative approach, an intervention led by community nutrition advisors in Free State and Northern Cape aimed to enhance the local population’s understanding of balanced and cost- effective nutrition (Walsh, C., Dannhauser, A. and Joubert, G. ,2003). Nutrition was their priority, and indeed, fruit and vegetable consumption improved as well as dairy products. Lastly, Mossoró’s Association of Family Organic Producers in Mato Grosso Brazil, started a project where they asked consumers to save their eggshells and bring them back to the market to incorporate them as fertilizers because of their high calcium content (Nóbrega I., 2020). This shows how a community can address waste issues in a way that benefits both their local environment and the greater community at large.
These examples illustrate the potential of instructional efforts and partnership for positive change surrounding nutrition and waste. For Brasilândia, this could be a good way of expanding the possibilities of what a healthy meal looks like and help achieving food security addressing things which don’t necessarily link to supply or geography. This could also have some impact on the family budget and result in sounder more nutritious choices which are adapted to their environs.
Conclusion
In conclusion, my exploration of food insecurity in Brazil underscores the pressing need for change. The country’s return to the UN Hunger Map is concerning. The case of Brasilândia exemplifies the challenges faced by marginalized populations. The unequal urban geography exacerbates food inequalities, yet stories of resilience and solidarity, particularly among women, offer hope. I propose three solutions for Brasilândia: local food production, inclusive supply chains, and improved food habits. These initiatives can lead to greater food security, independence, and sovereignty. Nevertheless, it is important thing to keep in mind that these initiatives do not make up for decades of state negligence, poorly planned infrastructure, and deep rooted spatial inequalities that created the problem of food deserts in the first place (Amaral, A. et al., 2020). I have not fully examined this issue from all its angles either. Race and gender are quite important when looking at inequality of access in Brazil, but they would deserve more than a community report to be properly included into the discussion. Independently, the message is clear: a transformation towards a fairer and inclusive food system is possible when communities come together and apply principles of citizenship to restore the one that was taken away from them. Hopefully one day, all Brazilians can sleep through the night peacefully knowing that everyone will have food for tomorrow.
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